KMID : 0604520090350010033
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 2009 Volume.35 No. 1 p.33 ~ p.39
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The Inhibitory Effects of Pogostemon cablin Bentham Extract on Melanogenesis
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Bae Seong-Yun
Lee Eung-Ji Son Rak-Ho Lee Yong-Hwa
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Abstract
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To develop a new natural whitening agent for cosmetics, we investigated the inhibitory effects of Pogostemon cablin Bentham extracts (PCE) and its active component on melanogenesis. PCE showed ROS scavenging activities in 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and xanthine/xanthine oxidase system with the values of and , respectively. PCE reduced melanin contents of B16 melanoma cells in a dose-dependant manner and decreased to about 23 % at a concentration of without cell cytotoxicity (below ). And the PCE reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 18 % at concentration of . We purified one active compound from PCE and identified its structure. It was identified as patchouli alcohol, sesquiterpene family, by 1H-NMR, -NMR, and Mass analysis. Patchouli alcohol also inhibited ROS scavenging activities in DPPH radical and xanthine/xanthine oxidase system with the values of and , respectively. Patchouli alcohol inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner (). And the patchouli alcohol reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 40 % at concentration of . Patchouli alcohol inhibited tyrosinase and TRP-2 expression at protein level. These results suggest that PCE and patchouli alcohol reduced melanin formation by the inhibited of tyrosinase activity and expression in B16 melanoma cells. Therefore, we suggest that PCE could be used as a useful whitening agent.
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KEYWORD
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melanogenesis, Pogostemon cablin Bentham, whitening, tyrosinase, patchouli alcohol
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